Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #19 (Work in Progress)

Just a quick report of small progress :)

I made seats rails from EVER GREEN "H" rod (cut to "T" shape).
And the stays are cut out of square rods.

The rails were applied by normal plastic cement; Tamiya's, fitted with the rails of following picture's seat.

I cut the "H" rods to "C" shapes this time. These "C" shapes mate to "T" shapes.

I chose Fujimi's seats, but I am planning to modify the seats' shapes. I feel both (Fujimi & Revell) of the seats seem like very hard and uncomfortable.... so I'll try to express the feeling of softness. Modifying of the seats will be the last thing to do, while the body paint dries out.

These small magnets were set in the seats. And I dug rectangle dents under the chassis below the seats and put the magnets without glues; movable,  so that the seat can be detachable and move forward and backward (to fit to my short legs??). I'll be able to see the engine from the cabin detaching the seats and engine cover :)

I could easily set the magnets 'cause the seats had already rooms for magnet underneath :) I applied 0.5mm plastic boards from the bottom.

So far so good... See you later!

Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #18 (Work in Progress)

Happy Monday? Let's start today's posting.

Revell's interior tub looks fairly good, especially the foot mat's detail. But it seems to me too square. So I decided to make the mat from scratch.

Firstly, I replicate the shape of mat to silicon replicator.

I filled the black CA glue with glue hardener. These were so fragile, so I made some spares.

They were applied onto the 0.3mm plastic paper (edge curved)  

Then KA MODELS Flocking powder (soft gray) was applied. To apply, I coated the woodwork bond (diluted with water) on the preferable area, then sprinkled the powder by fingers.

These white plastic papers are to fill up the gaps between interior and engine bay. I traced the rear window, body's pillar and the side walls. Without these, I could see the engine bay from the cabin (I couldn't believe it, but Fujimi has also the same problem!).

I applied the colors onto the flocking powder. Floor and back of seats are flat black, the higher part is flat gray (black and white). The colors were diluted with thinner to spread to flocking powder easily and evenly.

These pedals are from Fujimi's box. The surface of pedals are PE parts from Fujimi's box as well.
The top of the part was cut because it hit the Revell's body.

That's all for today :)
It's still Monday, but still enjoying my life...!

Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #17 (Work in Progress)

Sorry for having day off...

I thought I have to treat the gaps around front bonnet.

I glued 0.3mm plastic papers on both sides, then fulled the normal putty.

You can see the difference of colors on right and left edges. Don't say I've got to treat them earlier. (Of course I should)

Then I applied moving section on bonnet. This picture is the temporary one, I will cut the upper excess parts on bonnet.

Followings are how I made these moving parts.

I made 0.5mm hole in a 0.7mm plastic board, then inserted the 0.5mm brass pipe. This part will be glued to the body. From my experience, this part should be as front as you can, so that the moving width would be bigger (so that the body and the bonnet wouldn't hit each other).

This (right small one) is the part on bonnet. The 0.5mm nickel silver rod will be inserted into the pin hole. I am using the number plate part from Fujimi's box, just thinking it is thicker than 0.5mm plastic board.

I made lots of tries and errors on this stays (0.5mm nickel silvers). If they were too narrow, the bonnet and the body hit. If they were to large, the bonnet wasn't fit in the right place...

After some attempt, I found the right place to fit them in. Now I think I could use 0.7mm rods and more thick pipes for more strength, but I don't have guts to redo this job now.

Move to body modifying..

I should do this works earlier, now I can tell. 

Using 0.5mm plastic board...

Then glued and sanded to the right shapes.

These parts are not only the gum packing inside the doors, but also they give strength to the body. Oh, I should make the ceiling parts as well... still long way to go.

The interior tub had to be sanded to fit in the packing parts. Again, I should do this job earlier to make things easier.
Anyway, things are proceeding little by little :)

That's all for today, have a nice Sunday!!

Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #16 (Work in Progress)

Sorry for yesterday, I still had hangover this morning (but of course I went to work).

Now I'm fine and let's start the post today!

Assembly of front suspension section. 

Mainly out of box of Fujimi. I of course used PE brake disks. The gates (seam lines?) on parts were treated after this photo... taking photos, lots of mistakes are shown on them.

To fit into the width of Revell's body, I sanded this parts about 1mm on top and the second-top to set the brake disks in narrower position. Mmmm, hard to explain. Anyway, I had to make the width narrower about 2mm in total.

On top of battery, I attached EVER GREEN "H" plastic strip. I cut it in the shape of "T" then applied. On each end, I put insect pins. And the codes (MODELER'S 0.45mm) applied.

Now ready to temporary set to the chassis.

PE brake disk and modified suspension gives good atmosphere. 

The battery came to the right place. Inside the battery, I set a small magnet so that the rid (it also has a magnet) can be settled without glues.

The height of front section was adjusted by sanding the chassis.

Today's post is a bit short... sorry I feel so sleepy now.

See you later... :)

Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #15 (Work in Progress)

Post for today :)

Assembling the shock absorbers.

I replaced the spring section to 0.3mm nickel silver rod, the dumper to 3mm plastic pipe and 1mm brass rod. Just because I thought these works were as easy as masking and painting, and would lead a much better result. (This picture is for the front suspensions)

 I coiled the nickel silver rod to plastic pipe, then stretched and cut to a certain length.

 Then painted in these colors.

I didn't glued the brass rod and pipe but only the end of the spring so that this part has the mobility to fit in the right place without adjustments of its length. Right one is the original part.

 And the rear ones.

The rear shock absorbers were fitted. I had been afraid if they would obstruct the air cleaner pipes, but they didn't. Lucky me. The upper arms and the brake system sections are from Fujimi. Fitting the tires and looking the balance with the body, I tried several times to fit them to the right place.

The process of fitting rear wheels... at the beginning, the wheels came outside and forward.

So I had to peel off the brake disks so that I could shorten the width of the centre part on this picture. I should do this before I glue and paint these parts properly... but I don't care to redo the same jobs.

 And this part had to be cut short to fit the shorten part on above picture.

The shapes of the brake disks deformed by being peeled off. I used these clips to set the discs while the glue dried out. 

I use "Post-it" papers to adjust the heights. The suspension parts were glued just a bit backward. The wheels were set in preferable positions.

Being applied lots of cuts, pastes, removals cycles, some paints were getting bold. I have to treat them later on.

Some decals have to be applied, but almost of all works were done on this section. I enjoyed so much (It was hard time as well). Don't you think GTO's engine is really beautiful, do you?!

Thanks for looking and see you next time :)

Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #14 (Work in Progress)

Let's start today's post:)


Sorry for low definition for first 4 photos, 'cause I couldn't connect my camera to my PC and I had to take those photos from the camera's screen.

Air cleaner units are from Revell. I believe Fujimis' have more accuracy, but Fujimis' didn't fit to the air intakes of engine hood because of their sizes. But I thought I could do something to Revell's parts. Firstly I cut them with saws...

then drilled inside, glued and reshaped with sand paper after this photo.

and the pipes are from Fujimi. You can see the hole at the end of the pipe above. I set the rod to be inserted on another pipe to be set to this hole, I didn't take its picture though.

This crumpled aluminum foil (just the kitchen foil) was for heat shield plates beside the air cleaners.

The heat shield on the back (PE parts) was cut short to be fitted in Revell's body.
* To settle the pipes; sons of a gun, I used clear bond to set temporally then CA glue with  CA glue hardener spray  (sorry the link is Japanese, but I believe you can find several types of same kinds). Without them, I could hardly assemble the pipes, I reckon.

I glued and removed the air cleaners maybe 3-4 times to set them in proper positions.

This picture is of the last one's I made. It's clean, but I feel it's so called... simple. I indeed reckon, I got a progress (just slowly).


At this stage I felt engine itself was done.


But I felt something was still left...... even I tried not to even think about it.
That was......
  
Throttle levers.......



I firstly (at the time I was starting this project) thought they would be omitted feeling they were beyond my skill. but I couldn't help thinking about it at this stage. But there was very small spaces left to set them in....


I considered, thought and thought, worried and worried, but I decided.

My answer was....,

0.3mm plastic board and 0.3mm nickel silver rod was prepared for the throttle lever.

Centre part is from 1mm(?) plastic rod. Seeing this picture, the surface was a bit rough but please consider this was just 7-8mm part. Besides, I can hardly look at it being covered by fuel injection system (I know this is my excuse).

The throttles themselves were from brass rods (flattened by the pliers), and the rods were 0.3mm nickel silver rods. The brass rods were so easy to be cut, flatten and bent because of their softness.

I used the "G clear bond then CA glue with hardener" method here, too. The top on throttle was cut from 0.7mm brass rod.
It was a very hard job to set these tiny parts in very very tiny space after the settlement of all other parts. I nearly showed the finger in the process with lots of tries and errors, to be honest.

But now, I feel just terrific !!




That's it for today, my bros!!