Hi, I wanna just quickly show you how I enjoyed another rehab ;)
I really like the shape of this body; good job of Tamiya. I only managed to scrape panel lines with BMC Scraper 0.2mm deeper but still thin, and sanded the seam lines away.
This time I was sure I'd make the antenna with brass pipe and nickel silver rods, so I made little hole on the roof to set it.
Body was painted in black for the base color. I did this for the first time to avoid the transparency. Oh, I've got to mention that I set the bonnet and trunk lid after sanding their edges (not to touch the body when airbrushed). You can see the wheels are not the genuine ones from the box, and the height looks a bit high (in my opinion).
This was the one I decided to chose. The body design of New Beetle consists of 3 circles, and I thought this "Volk Recing Formula S" wheel does have 3 circles in it's design. Might be a good harmony!!
I don't know why this pic goes vertically and I can't manage to rotate it, but who cares in this world:) This shows how I managed to fit unexpected Fujimi's wheel to Tamiya's chassis. Firstly I dug the holes then inserted plastic rods to the holes.
Then another big holes were given to the brake parts of Tamiya (genuine parts) to fit them in to Fujimi's wheels. These were because, the off-sets of the wheels were so different and Fujimi's wheels came out from the edges of the body so I couldn't set the genuine brake parts between the suspension parts and Fujimi's wheel. I inserted the brake parts to the wheel.
Then Gunze (Mr. Color) base white 1000 applied to the body. After this, sanded with #1500 paper.
I tried this many metallic colors... I'll report about those colors
later on. Most of them are Gunze's Mr. color GX metallic or mixed ones
on several bases.
Finally I choose the simple "GX Metallic Blue". I liked GX Metallic
Yellow Green as well, but I want to make the "old" Beetle in light blue
and display it next to this "new" with good harmony.
To
apply metallic color evenly, I airbrush those colors from fair
distance and make it sandy and mat finish.
Then applied Gunze's Super
Clear 3 in the same way for about 3-4 layers (to avoid the metallic
powder or color soaked out unevenly) then after drying apply fair
amount of final clear coat.
This time I didn't use sand papers, but only Soft 99 fine compound, Gunze's rough, Fine then Finishing with the motor tool (
refer to WIP of my LEXUS IS 350). If the sand papers were not needed, it's much easier to get the glossy finish without fears of cutting through:), though still need to be careful.
Instead of instructed "X-18 Semigloss Black", I painted the pillar in
Gross Black, but the rims are in Semigloss. Oh, the masking seals in the
box are not in proper sizes... Doesn't look like Tamiya's work, I don't
care too much though. This is relaxed rehab again for me lol. I should remind you I needed to sand the upper part of side window parts to fit to the body properly.
Rear and side windows were airbrushed in blue-smoke color.
And the fit of the front window parts. I needed to apply the liquid glue
between the pillar and front glass and hold it for 3 mins. I think some don't care this small thing, but I never allow
those gaps to remain on my projects, it's not REAL.
This is the result. I feel much happier with no gaps.
My interior is not instructed 3 tones but only 2 tones of flat black and the body color. This is enough to enjoy my rehab, even looks wilder. I did some touch ups after this.
Still the picture is vertical lol. I set the nuts on the back of chassis to stabilize on to the display case with the bolts.
Some other small things to do... Masked and airbrushed the clear colors on ramps, put the nickel silver rod into the door handle as the key cylinder, applied chrome seat to the mirrors... and so on.
The antenna's base was cut from the genuine part, set 0.8mm (inside 0.6mm) brass pipe and 0.5mm nickel silver rod. The tip was small drop of CA glue.
Tamiya's X-11 chrome silver (paint marker; transferred to the cup) was
airbrushed to the ramps from the back. I could paint it on the body, but I
didn't want the silver paint or body color to be seen through the
light covers or the gaps. I took the easiest way.
Good old method to the emblems. Enamel semi gross black and wiped with the thinner soaked to the tip.
The fits between the ramps and body were good on the rear.
This is the somehow worst point of this kit. The decal was just straight but the
mold of the rear stop light was curved. It's not too easy to settle it
properly (at least not for beginner). I expected more, only because this was Tamiya's kit, if not Tamiya's, I may not even care.
I sanded around the front head light covers to fit it in the dents of body. Again I say I expected more to Tamiya's job, but small ramp fits were just fine. I know it'd be affected from the thickness of the paint, but I'd rather say it was more than that.
It was so quick, but finally wheels were set to the suspensions. Suspension parts were cut 1.5mm to make it low down.
I recommend this method to all of you, the key cylinder with the nickel silver rod. The rod (0.5mm) was polished on top with metal file. I think it's even much easier than painting X-11 chrome silver on this tiny tiny part.
The antenna (primer applied and airbrushed in flat black) was set .
.....That's all I did!! I enjoyed this rehab so much and I really like this new, chubby buddy!!!
I just put one photo shot of completed work. This is just temporally, I'll post better ones later on :)
I still can't take my eyes off from my new chubby friend...
Now it's the time to think about another rehab... ? Yes, still need rehab.
Thanks for watching!!!
