Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #32 (Work in Progres)

Hi all, from sunny and windy Sydney.

I'll post progress of 5 days (I wish I could spend all my time making my GTO, though maybe 1-2 hours a day).
I'm sure I'm approaching to the goal (except the left door).

Masked and sprayed the window rims.

0.3mm Plastic paper was adhered to the side of rear window. It could be a bit thinner, but I thought thinner materials would trace the rough surface. This was cool enough for me.

Front hood stay. Mainly just made from 0.5mm nickel silver and plastic bar to be adhered to the body, but to show as if it was dumper, I just added the brass tube. ....I forgot to take photo of rear one (rear one was simple, as the real one was).

Finally the body and chassis were docked. Still lots of adjustment for the stays of front and rear hoods, height of the interior tub.... and so on.

I normally trim the edges of the back of the wheels. I don't know why car model manufactures make me do this messy job.

Then simply masked the wheel centres. I could take off the plating, but after painting the metal-look paints, it's all the same, we can't touch so much. I took an easier way.

Sprayed Flat Aluminum (Tamiya enamel XF-16) and the air valves were attached. I bought these valves about 10 years ago.

Tyres were attached. Now I can see this is a car, indeed. Luckily, it seems like I don't need to adjust the height again.

I need to hurry up instead of watching, but I can't help smiling watching this "almost finished" appearance.

It was lucky I didn't need too much time to adjust and fit the head light units.  

Left door is now under repair, but just some small jobs to do!!
And I'll be making wipers, fitting emblems, mirrors and show case as well very soon.

I hope I could tell "I finished!!" on the next post.

Have a happy Monday... :) 

Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #31 (Work in Progres)

Hi, I'm still struggling to fix the clack on the left door, but I believe I can report the success of it :) If not, the color will run out and I can never match the color up with other body parts....!!! I have never been serious like this before, in my life (exaggerated expression).

Just a quick post.

Fixing the arrangement of the hole.

It's not perfect, but keep on going! Or I can't finish this project. I took too much time already!!!

Masking of the shade on front window. Thick double sided tape and 0.2mm plastic paper.
I decided to use the front window from Revell's box. It was not too bad, and I thought it'd be too tricky to attach the thin, 0.2mm window I made. For now, I just want to finalize this project.... I am doing too much, and now I want to make other ones!

The shade's color was, clear blue 60% + clear red 40%. Then clear coated. After this, I'll polish.

But the rear window was replaced to 0.2mm plastic transparent board. I want to see the dashboard clearly through.

Temporally the body and the chassis were docked, to keep my motivation...
(I'll treat the black color beside the rear window).

Thanks for watching!!

Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #30 (Work in Progres)

Hi... I'm struggling.

There appears clacks on left door.

Actually I found these before polishing, so....

I sanded them out, clear coated  and....

Polished again, indeed.  (don't worry about the  water drop on this picture)


BUT HERE COMES THE CLACK AGAIN, AFTER 2 WEEKS OF TIME!!!

I think I'll over coat them with clear again then sand and polish.... suspecting the clacks coming again....

Oh, I was noticed there's one little mistake on head light.

I placed the adjustment hole on the wrong side on this one. (Actually Tamiya's 1/12 seems to  make same mistake!!)

It's not perfect, but almost.

Real car. I hadn't realized these tricky arrangements of the holes.

Very short update....

Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #29 (Work in Progres)

Hi, today's Sydney was soooo windy, that was 100km/hour, according to TV news! I was too afraid my house would be blown away with my GTO... oh, now my GTO is the first priority, I realized.

The seat belts. Combinations of after market seat belt metal fittings, Fujimi's parts, nickel silver rods, insect pin #0 and Nitto's tape. I prefer Nitto's tape for the seat belts than any other materials including satin ribbons so far, because Nitto's tape has enough softness thinking of its scale; 1/24.

Setting these was very irritating task again. I'm under training to be calm.

Another tiny tiny task. Flattened 0.3mm nickel silver rod, 0.3mm plastic paper and polished 0.3mm nickel silver rod.

That tiny thing was set left front side of the driver's seat. It's front bonnet open lever.

Now I think I did enough for the interior. Oh, I didn't mention about seat belt holder in centre. It was mainly from Fujimi's box but 0.3mm plastic paper painted in red was applied; release buttons. And it's stays were replaced by 0.5mm nickel silver rods. Side brake handle was adhered offset to the driver's seat. The hole for it was filled up with putty and overcoated by the same powder and color.

Then rear combination ramps. I picked Hasegawa's 328GTB's ramps, because of their correct shapes. I dug hole in centres of ramp parts then the clear orange (and red) was airbrushed from the front, with lacquer based color.

Some may say it'd be painted from the back, but in my opinion the real one is solid clear orange (or red) parts, they are in their color from the front.Then masked and semi-gross black was airbrushed.

I airbrushed the clear colors fairly thickly.

The straw was cut and painted in silver...

Then set inside the rims from the back, because I didn't like to see through black color in clear orange (red as well). The centre plastic beam were painted in silver from the back and inserted.

Then Hasegawa's Mirror Finish was cut in circle. I found Evergreen's rod (one in the "associated" pipes and rods) is almost the same size. I pushed the rod onto the Mirror Finish and cut outside.

Then set from the back.

Right one was the treated one, left one was not. Please say, right one looks better!!!

The rear combination ramps and meshes were glued with Aqua-Linker (Konishi Bond's). Mmmm.... I need to treat the gap between body and the side meshes.

 I choose Hasegawa's Mirror Finish on the back of driving ramps. Yes, looks like mirrors. The lenses were from Modeler's light lens sets. (Modeler's no longer exists, but I believe we can find similar one).

The head right glasses were from Fujimi's 330P4 (I ordered the spare parts, I'll make 330P4 someday, surely), and the bases were Sakatsu's aluminum parts, I think I mentioned it in the post I made before.

 How many magnets I've used in this built?? But I'm sure this will make it easy to open.

 Light units were successfully placed to the body. Of course it could be closed!

The photo-etched front grill (from Fujimi's box) was also set. Now I can feel this is GTO's face!

Just some more things to do to finish!! (The windows fitting will be big job, though)

Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #28 (Work in Progres)

Hi,

Finally here comes the body paint report (It's not the final job on my GTO, though).
Last time I think I told I had been struggling to adjust the colors on the panel.
I should have combined all the panel such as bonnet, doors and rear hood on the main body then air-brushed. But before doing so, I needed to paint the hidden parts such as inside the door or inside the front bonnet and I thought it would be a troublesome work... but, BUT, now I strongly think I should. I took too much time to adjust the colors.

I tried to overlay 3-4 times to adjust especially the color between the door panels and the body without success. If I didn't have the air-brush, I couldn't pile the color up so many times.

Then I tried in this way.

Lightly white overlaid on the joint...  

Then overlaid the body color. Well, I was relieved. I spread the body color just a little bit more later on.

 The color recipe was Tamiya Spray Italian Red 25% : Tamiya Spray Blight Red 75% (+ a bit of Gaia Color Rosso corsa, but I think it doesn't matter if it was not added). Then clear coated with Gaia EX-Clear (if I couldn't buy it, I would use Tamiya Spray "Clear"). After 4-5 days dry out, I sanded up the rough surface with #1500 Tamiya finishing paper then clear coated again, then after 4-5 days dry out I polished with Soft-99 fine compound (for real cars), then Tamiya Coarse compound - Fine compound, Finishing compound.

I don't like this job, but masking should have taken place.
I air-brushed the Tamiya Spray Semi-gross black. I couldn't use enamel based color because I needed stronger surface to glue the window.

So I said I didn't like masking....

No worries, I have strong weapon. The "Gundam Marker" semi gross black. By just tracing, I could see it's better. But be aware, the Gundam Marker doesn't seem to be enamel based but lacquer based. If you failed, you need to scrub with compound applied on the tip of toothpick...like I did after this photo. Still some more retouches were taken place.

The black lines on body-sides. I cut them from Hasegawa's Flat Black Finish. I love it!

Now I feel numbness on my hands doing these tiny job. Cut from Hasegawa's modelling mesh 23 (hexagonal, medium size) then metal primer and semi-gross black were applied.

I used Konishi's "Clear anchor" to set those... I really think it's easier said than done! I'm sure I'm training myself to be patient and calm.

Then suddenly move to centre console. Mainly I used the etching parts from Fujimi's box. I dug hole under the sift cage. Nickel silver 0.5mm rod for the sift lever, the base were the combination of Evergreen's 1.5mm half round and square shaped plastic rod. The head was... I'm not sure but one from after market aluminum parts.

Ready to be set.

Adhered from the back of console.

I feel I did as much as I could on this console. ...Oh, I need to fill up the hole for side lever brake (lower right on the photo), because I found it should be offset to the driver's seat.


I'm almost there, way to go!!!!