Long time no see... Sorry, my work (to live) is now getting harder and I caught cold...
Anyway, let's start posting.
Inside the doors.
I chose Fujimi's, 'cause the speaker's PE fits to the hole, and their sizes were a bit bigger than Revell's. The sizes had to be bigger because they had to fit to the doors, not to the interior tub.
I cut the upper section to make coloring and shaping the handles in a accurate way easier.
Since I thought the side pocket mold of Fujimi was too big, I decided to make the pocket movable instead of just scraping another line.
This time I can't stop these ridiculous works... The light on the handle. I made a hole, the light clear part was from my junk parts, shaped smaller than grain of rice.
Then sanded to apply flat black.
Same flocking powder were applied on upper parts, the back of the lights were colored in chrome silver; Tamiya paint marker.
I made door handles from 0.3mm plastic paper and 1.5mm plastic rod. I could leave them as power window version, but I couldn't think my GTO has power window. Even, I haven't put air-conditioner! (just because Revell's dash didn't have that mold)
My camera couldn't focus to this tiny handle...
I put the lip to prevent the pocket going into the board. On the bottom of the pocket, I glued 0.3mm nickel silver rod with CA glue. Of course flat black was applied on the lip later.
I don't like to show the back... but this way, I hold the pocket. The back-up white plastic paper was 0.3mm, so the 0.3mm nickel silver was ideal for the stay. For my excuse, I don't care where you can't see...!
The outline was cut and sanded to fit to body.
So far so good. If I found good decal on speaker (black "Ferrari GTO" letters on yellow), I'll put it.
I think I can proceed to the painting of the body soon. Still a long way, but surely approaching to the finish line :)
See you soon!
Sunday, August 12, 2012
Saturday, August 4, 2012
Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi #20 (Work in Progress)
Today's Friday!
I had a bit of alcohol... but I'm in the mood of posting. I may make lots of mistakes on glamor, no, grammar.
Assembling the dashboard.
I thought and thought... and I decided to use Revell's dashboard, because the 3 meter's (fuel, temperatures) atmosphere seemed better and I thought that Fujimi's meters couldn't be modified easily on that part.
Firstly, I sanded the meter cover (over the console) to round shape.
I dug the hall on console panel. The outlets of air conditioner on right and left were dug by the scraper (free hand was the best way). PE from Fujimi's box will be used on 3 outlets on centre (you can see on the left one).
For the digging, I usually use these kind of tools. Left one is Hasegawa's scraper and right is rotary tool (0.5mm drill attached).
Left bottom is Fujimi's PE, centre is Fujimi's meter panel (holes applied) and right one is 0.3mm plastic paper (Revell's meter decals were cut and applied; ). Between the PE and meter panel, I applied 0.3mm clear plastic board. I used the clear bond (Konishi's "G clear") to glue these parts, because when I tried with CA glue, the clear parts went cloudy. I made lots of tries and errors here as well. :)
This was the result for meter panel. I like the colors on Revell's decals (the famous "red on black"). I got headache after cutting and applying these tiny small decals on panel.
The white parts are from Hasegawa's 328GTB.... I decided to use the handle stay (on the right) because the chassis plate was molded on it. I'll somehow make it up when I make 328GTB... Now is the time to concentrate to 288GTO.
To fit Hasegawa's handle stay, holes were applied. You can see Holes, holes and holes.
I couldn't do this job without loupe. Under half is Revell's ('cause Revell has just under half. Why???) and the upper half was cut from Fujimi's decal. I could choose Fujimi's decal for whole, but again I didn't like its atmosphere. Besides, Fujimi's decal are too fragile for these works (If I put the decal coat, they won't fit to these small section). The color is different in upper and under, but I thought this was the best solution.
To fit Fujimi's meter panel into Revell's dashboard, it took looong time for adjustment.
Then the KA Model's flocking powder and enamel flat black + white + thinner was applied (the method was the same as the interior tub; before the last post). Maybe this looks a bit exaggerated, still I think it would be better than other ways of painting (of mine). Of course, this job had to be before applying decals on centre consoles....! The way you can do these kind of jobs much easier...
I chose Revell's steering wheel, just because it seemed cool to me. Revell's details are sometimes attractive, seeing the prancing horses, wipers, etc.
The centre aluminum (stainless steel?) section was thinned by rotary tool and sandpapers, and horn button was sanded away.
For the horn button, I used one of these.
I put 0.7mm brass tubes (black CA glue applied and shaped on top) as levers. And, once again a hole was applied through the handle stay. I made the steering wheel steerable; not linked to the front wheels though.
I bought a red, polyester training shirt from K Mart ($8 only on bargain) for only this purpose. I maybe use this shirt for the seats as well. The white plate is from 0.5mm plastic boards; 2-ply.
The PE chassis plate is from Hobby Design (I couldn't find the right one, but still OK to me). I changed the shape on the lever on right; light witch, I reckon, from plastic rods. The rings on centre 3 meters were made from 0.3mm nickel silver; coiled and cut. Enamel clear was also applied on the meters.
The left side pocket was assembled with 0.3mm plastic papers, colored in flat red and attached.
The GTO logo on right is from Fujimi's box, applied with CA glue after being set in the right place.
Oh, you can't see from these pictures, but the key hole was from Fujimi's box. I'll treat the key holder (Fujimi's PE) during the body paint dries.
That's all for today:)
Have a nice weekend!!!
I had a bit of alcohol... but I'm in the mood of posting. I may make lots of mistakes on glamor, no, grammar.
Assembling the dashboard.
I thought and thought... and I decided to use Revell's dashboard, because the 3 meter's (fuel, temperatures) atmosphere seemed better and I thought that Fujimi's meters couldn't be modified easily on that part.
Firstly, I sanded the meter cover (over the console) to round shape.
I dug the hall on console panel. The outlets of air conditioner on right and left were dug by the scraper (free hand was the best way). PE from Fujimi's box will be used on 3 outlets on centre (you can see on the left one).
For the digging, I usually use these kind of tools. Left one is Hasegawa's scraper and right is rotary tool (0.5mm drill attached).
Left bottom is Fujimi's PE, centre is Fujimi's meter panel (holes applied) and right one is 0.3mm plastic paper (Revell's meter decals were cut and applied; ). Between the PE and meter panel, I applied 0.3mm clear plastic board. I used the clear bond (Konishi's "G clear") to glue these parts, because when I tried with CA glue, the clear parts went cloudy. I made lots of tries and errors here as well. :)
This was the result for meter panel. I like the colors on Revell's decals (the famous "red on black"). I got headache after cutting and applying these tiny small decals on panel.
The white parts are from Hasegawa's 328GTB.... I decided to use the handle stay (on the right) because the chassis plate was molded on it. I'll somehow make it up when I make 328GTB... Now is the time to concentrate to 288GTO.
To fit Hasegawa's handle stay, holes were applied. You can see Holes, holes and holes.
I couldn't do this job without loupe. Under half is Revell's ('cause Revell has just under half. Why???) and the upper half was cut from Fujimi's decal. I could choose Fujimi's decal for whole, but again I didn't like its atmosphere. Besides, Fujimi's decal are too fragile for these works (If I put the decal coat, they won't fit to these small section). The color is different in upper and under, but I thought this was the best solution.
To fit Fujimi's meter panel into Revell's dashboard, it took looong time for adjustment.
Then the KA Model's flocking powder and enamel flat black + white + thinner was applied (the method was the same as the interior tub; before the last post). Maybe this looks a bit exaggerated, still I think it would be better than other ways of painting (of mine). Of course, this job had to be before applying decals on centre consoles....! The way you can do these kind of jobs much easier...
I chose Revell's steering wheel, just because it seemed cool to me. Revell's details are sometimes attractive, seeing the prancing horses, wipers, etc.
The centre aluminum (stainless steel?) section was thinned by rotary tool and sandpapers, and horn button was sanded away.
For the horn button, I used one of these.
I put 0.7mm brass tubes (black CA glue applied and shaped on top) as levers. And, once again a hole was applied through the handle stay. I made the steering wheel steerable; not linked to the front wheels though.
I bought a red, polyester training shirt from K Mart ($8 only on bargain) for only this purpose. I maybe use this shirt for the seats as well. The white plate is from 0.5mm plastic boards; 2-ply.
The PE chassis plate is from Hobby Design (I couldn't find the right one, but still OK to me). I changed the shape on the lever on right; light witch, I reckon, from plastic rods. The rings on centre 3 meters were made from 0.3mm nickel silver; coiled and cut. Enamel clear was also applied on the meters.
The left side pocket was assembled with 0.3mm plastic papers, colored in flat red and attached.
The GTO logo on right is from Fujimi's box, applied with CA glue after being set in the right place.
Oh, you can't see from these pictures, but the key hole was from Fujimi's box. I'll treat the key holder (Fujimi's PE) during the body paint dries.
That's all for today:)
Have a nice weekend!!!
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