Ferrari 365GTB4 Competizione Work In Progress #2

Well, WIP #2.

I didn't really want to tell you, but I had my gorgeous 365GTB4 recovered from a big accident.
The accident was this.

Full of dimples on urethane clear coat. After the lacquer clear coat, I applied urethane clear and the result was shown as above. I succeeded by totally the same process on this New Beetle, and at that time there was no, never a problem.

Yes, I recovered this finally so don't worry, but at that time, I could suspect some reason on these dimples.
Well, before that, I would show you one photo.

 I airbrushed the same urethane clear and the same things happened to these spoons too.

Well, I think, maybe,
1, The moisture was captured into the clear (I am using 2 regulators to get the moisture out, and on that day it was a very clear day, so I can't say yes to this).
2, The inside of my airbrush was dirty and contained some residue into the urethane clear. This is the most reasonable factor.
3, The urethane clear was not mixed well or the mixture ratio was wrong. (I don't think so because I used the scale and saw the grams.
4, The urethane clear was a bit old. (Although some really oppose to this opinion.)

.... Anyway, I can tell, so far I'll try to create better result with my good old method; lacquer clear coat. I'll tell sorry to the fans of urethane clear, but it's just too much for me. Why don't I choose my good old method, if I succeeded with it. I myself might be wrong (not the urethane clear), but I can't take too much risk if I only want to have fun.

To recover, I just very carefully and gradually sand the urethane clear and tried to make it shine.

It was a very delicate job not to damage a decal. Now I think I can clean very precious fossil completely.

But unfortunately, I found some cut through to the lacquer clear layer, like peeled onion (can't see on the picture).

So I over covered Tamiya's Acrylic clear X-22 after applying Bare Metal Foil onto the window rims. Acrylic clear was my only option (It doesn't harm urethane clear, and stronger than enamel colors so I can paint and wipe on that clear).

You can see I had succeeded, but more than 1 month needed to start the polishing with compounds. It was very slow to dry... But still if I touch and press hard, finger mark would be left. I can't really use X-22 Acrylic clear on car model again. Just using lacquer clear is simple and the surface is strong.

Well, I had so long time to do something to the interior and others.
The white metal parts can be easily painted if the metal primer was applied. I used "GSI Creos Plate Silver on Tamiya enamel black" method on right parts and so on.

I used after market seat belt, because photo etching seat belt's size was just small.

Aqua-linker was applied on meters.

The panel inside the door had nothing, so I made holes and added those details.

So simple so good!!

Well, again this post became so long, so I'll post another one for the next.

Thanks for coming today!!