Sorry I didn't post yesterday.... it was Friday night.
Today's will be a bit longer because I took day off for posting yesterday.
I want to express this; the hollow for emblem.
I placed a PE emblem, then traced around by scraper.
Traced, traced and traced, then scraped inside by the rotary tool.
Considering the thickness of paint, the hollow was made a bit larger than the emblem.
The PE emblem was from MUSEUM COLLECTION, but I think many manufactures are making the same kinds.
And the front fender's lower part was reshaped as shown above... sorry, I didn't take the "before" picture. "Before" was too narrow on the bottom.
I filled the gaps between the body and the interior with plastic boards.
Then applied another board and reshaped.
OK, the door fits in proper position.
I am happy with the straight line of the door as well.
The light covers are from Fujimi. The widths were narrowed and fitted.
I was afraid of this troublesome work... but I started on the door movable section. This base part was cut and sanded out from a runner.
I made 2 types pf base, one has long hands and another has short hands to see how the door moves smoothly without hitting the body. In this case I chose the left one.
This picture shows how it works. The blue cord is just a temporary one, later on it'll be replaced to the brass rods.
The base was glued to the body.
The brass rods are removable so that I can take doors off when needed.
Hmmmm, it's cool!!
...But I think this is better solution. From
http://www.geocities.jp/factory_chikasitsu/diary/2012-02/diary_2012_02.html
This is much easier and could lead better result, I believe.
Now move to engine hood.
I decided to use Fujimi's engine hood, because I want to use PE louvers in the kit. The louvers' part didn't fit to Revell's (I tried and tried to fit the PE part to the Revell's without succeeding).
This is the PE louvers. It took a few hours to make them the same angles using the design knife.The instruction of Fujimi is 90 degrees, but I think it'll be 45 degrees.
But making the PE louvers 45 degrees, I had to thin up the hood part so that the tops of louvers come to the right place.
Since Fujimi's hood is shorter than the Revell's, I have to lengthen it.
I have not suffered in vain. The result is good!!!
I thought I have to edge up this line. I use masking tapes and sand up beside it.
For the louvers on front fenders, I used 0.3mm plastic papers. Firstly I fixed the side ribs and marked 11 dots to fit the louvers (real GTO has 11 louvers) . I put the middle one firstly, then other dots by freehand.
It went bumpy when I did this work in the evening. So I removed them all once and retried in the afternoon in the sun. We need sunshine, indeed.
Front bonnet. The curve for wipers are too wide, I realized. I applied 0.3mm plastic paper from the back then filled putty to narrow them.
The louvers. The same process as front fender's. But to make them a bit curvy, the width of louvers are just a bit wider than the bonnet's.
I am happy with the result.
Body works last so long... seeing this thread it seems like I didn't take time so much, but until this page I took more than 2 month since starting. Especially "putty and sand again and again" takes time...
This is the first time to pursue the reality deeply. But I believe this experiences improve me to do the same thing faster next time.
That all for today! Have a nice weekend :)
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